How to choose the right pigment for each permanent make-up technique
Pigments for eyebrows: Mineral vs. hybrid
Today, mineral and hybrid pigments are mainly used for eyebrows, while purely organic pigments are basically a thing of the past. Hybrid pigments combine mineral and organic ingredients, and due to their Carbon Black (CI77266) content, they tend to transition into cooler tones over time, such as grey. Conversely, mineral pigments that contain stable ingredients such as Iron Oxide Red (CI77491) transition to warmer tones - especially red.
What does this mean for the final effect? Mineral pigments will change to warmer shades over time, which you can see in older permanent brows that look orange or red. Hybrid pigments, which contain more carbon, on the other hand, transition to cooler tones, such as grey, and last longer on the brows than mineral pigments.
How to recognize mineral vs. hybrid pigment? Just look at the CI number listed on the bottle. If all the numbers are above 75000, it is a mineral pigment. (Except of course for Carbon Black, which is the most stable color in pigments.) If the numbers are both above and below 75000, it is a hybrid pigment because it contains both mineral and organic ingredients.
Eyeliner and Carbon Black
For eyeliners, the Carbon Black content is an absolute must because it allows the pigment to penetrate the delicate skin on the eyelids better. If a pigment without carbon were used, the result would be very weak and the effect almost invisible. Beware, however, that pure Carbon Black tends to go into grey-blue tones over time, which is very common. Therefore, it is a good idea to combine black pigment with warmer tones, for example with an orange corrector, or mix it with a brown pigment to warm up the resulting colour effect.
It is important to be very careful about pressure when working with eyeliner. The skin on the eyelids is extremely thin, and if the pressure is too strong, there is a risk of pigment migration. Therefore, the application must be very gentle, but due to the carbon content, the pigment easily gets into the skin.
Lips and organic pigments
For permanent lip make-up, organic pigments are most commonly used. The lips have a different structure to the rest of the face, are much finer and the application of the pigment must be superficial. Organic pigments are ideal for this technique because they are easy to apply and give smooth results.
If the client prefers a subtle and watercolour effect, you can dilute the pigment using a thinner. If, on the other hand, she wants a bolder and richer colour, it is better to use pigments without thinner.
Tips from Veronika Petrás
From my own experience, I can recommend Etalon Mix pigments, which have both a hybrid and mineral line for brows. The mineral range (numbers 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10) still contains a small amount of Carbon Black, which makes application easier, but the results are very subtle and natural. For shaded brows, I combine hybrid and mineral pigments - I apply the first two to three coats with hybrid pigments to add richness, and use mineral pigments for the final blending for a subtle transition.
Sometimes I also mix hybrid and mineral pigments directly in the cup in a 50:50 ratio, which creates a great effect. For the hairstrokes technique, I work exclusively with hybrid pigments and with all the shades of the hybrid range (shades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 11) as they ensure a very easy and quick application and the pigment heals well, with approximately 70-80% of the pigment remaining in the skin in the healed result.
If you are working on lips, I recommend using organic pigments. Etalon Mix lip pigments are all from the organic range.
My favorite colors are 1,3,5,6 and 7. I almost always mix these colors in different ratios with each other.
You can find all of these Etalon Mix pigments in our online shop.